Thank heavens for the McDonald’s McDouble cheeseburger, “one of the unsung wonders of modern life.” Right?
Wrong!
More on Shine: McDonald's Alums' Big Bet on Healthy Food
Though the unhealthiness of fast food should be pretty much a given at this point, New York Post columnist Kyle Smith has giddily praised
the McDouble not only as an unsung wonder but also as a wonderful way
for people to eat cheaply and healthfully. In his nearly-800-word
opinion, published Monday, Smith praised the McDouble’s $1 price and
pitted “class snobs, locavore foodies and militant anti-corporate types”
against “the poor.” He mysteriously called organics “the Abercrombie
and Fitch jeans of food,” and even challenged the notion that fast food
is linked to obesity.
More on Yahoo!: Vegetarians Live Longer and Prosper: Study
Smith’s column was inspired by a recent Freakonomics radio podcast titled “A Burger a Day,” in which host Kai Ryssdal based his show around a comment from a listener (Ralph Thomas) calling the McDouble “the cheapest, most nutritious and bountiful food that has ever existed in human history.”
Oh, Thomas and Smith, where to even begin to tear down your crazy claims?
Let’s start with the plainest of facts: nutritional content. One McDouble contains 19 grams of fat, 8 grams of saturated fat
and 1 gram of trans fat, representing a whopping 29 percent, 42
percent, and 65 percent of your USDA daily allowance intakes,
respectively, in just a single meal. The cholesterol content is at 22
percent of daily allowance—so if you’ve already had more than one egg
for breakfast, you’re sunk, way before dinnertime. Fiber is at a woeful 2
grams, or 7 percent of the daily recommended intake (DRI). And the
sandwich contains 850 mg of sodium, which is a pretty high 35 percent of
the daily limit.
“It’s a pretty extreme claim,” Jim White,
a registered dietician and spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition
and Dietetics, told Yahoo! Shine about Smith’s column. “My main problem
is it’s got 40 percent of the saturated fat for the day,” he explained,
which can only add to the problem of lower-income populations having
higher rates of disease. "I'm worried about heart disease. And I hate to
hear a claim like this," he added, "because affordable foods can still
be healthy."
So, taking cost in to account, what's the alternative?
As
a guest on the Freakonomics broadcast, Mother Jones food columnist Tom
Philpott wisely suggested that you “get a pound of brown rice, organic,
and a pound of red lentils for about two bucks each. And a serving size,
say a cup of each of those things, would be about 75 cents.” And check
out the nutritional benefits: That serving size of red lentils contains
57 percent of DRI for fiber, 18 grams of protein (compared with 23 for
the double burger), less than one gram of total fat, zero percent sodium
and no cholesterol. The brown rice, meanwhile, adds 14 percent of daily
fiber and 5 grams of protein, with a scant 1.8 total grams of fat and
no sodium or cholesterol.
But Smith responded to that solution
by snarkily dodging the issue. “Great idea,” he wrote. “Now go open a
restaurant called McBoiled Lentils and see how many customers line up.”
He
basically echoes an opinion shared on Freakonomics, in which guest
Blake Hurst, a corn and soy farmer, declared, “I’m sorry, there is no
amount of marketing that’s going to make me prefer brown rice and
lentils over a McDonald’s cheeseburger.”
Are
people like Smith truly concerned about feeding poor people
nutritiously and cheaply? Or are they perpetuating corporate,
agri-business myths that help to brainwash Americans into believing that
healthy, plant-based whole foods are snobbish, while fat-drenched and
antibiotic-laden meats and processed foods are cool?
While the
cheeseburger may cost a mere buck, it brings with it less obvious costs
related to healthcare. A constant stream of studies show that fast food contributes to heart disease
and high blood pressure; a recent study found that vegetarians live
longer than meat eaters due to having lower blood pressure. And while
McDonalds has worked to lower the amount of antibiotics in its meats, it
has not eliminated them entirely—something that concerns many health
experts.
All of this does not even touch on the large carbon
footprint and the inhumane treatment of animals that go into the making
of McDoubles. But that kind of talk is what Smith
is waiting for. “Activists will go anywhere to wave the banner of
caring and plant their flagpole of social justice right in the foot of
the working class,” he wrote. So I’ll save that part, and let the
nutrition facts speak for themselves.
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